Wednesday, 26 January 2011

40th Muharram

The "Arba'een" is the 40th day of Muharram, the month of mourning amongst Shia'a muslims. They are mourning for the death of the Imam Hussein and all his supporters who were slain at the Battle of Karbala in 680 AD. Every year since then, processions that include self-flogging and chants go down the streets of many countries around the world. In Bahrain, this is an especially eventful time of year as for the entire month (or 40 days) the matems (Shia'a holy places) are busy with extra events and more sermons.

I was in Muharraq on the night of the "Arba'een"(literally translated: the 40th), one of the bigger, more eventful nights of this holy month.  Warned that I would not find any parking in Manama because of the processions, I stayed in Muharraq to watch the events.  I took some shots of video (below). It was relatively uneventful and my camera work is pretty shoddy (bad light for bad camera); but it was all very moving, most particularly the soulful way that each group's leader was singing (although 'singing' is not the correct word for this practice). The apparent soul in the people partaking in the walk was remarkable and awe-inspiring. The sound in the video (below) is luckily much better than the image and conveys the energy caught in the rhythm of the songs and the pounding of hands on chest in unison.

video

When I say (above) "relatively uneventful", what I mean is relative to what was happening in Manama. In the last two days, I drove around Manama and saw a lot of remains from the big night. Lots of stalls, flags, people still sitting around having tea and eating the aash (a legume stew that gets handed out to everyone around by the people of the neighborhood).

Regardless of all the colour, reenactments, dressed horses, and what seemed like probably lots of food and noise happening in Manama, I was happy to be at that subdued part of town in Muharraq's suq area. While there I was thinking of how much more pleasant it was than any carnival or fest, religious or not, that I have ever been to.  People were friendly, the cops were friendly, organizers from the matems were giving out cake and juice to everyone.  This mix of hospitality and spirituality created a warm effect about the event.

Next year, however, I do hope to go to Manama for it!

Monday, 24 January 2011

Guthaibiya Palace

Because we have so few archive images of Bahrain floating around our visual imagination, I get very excited when I see 'old pictures' anywhere. These are two images of the Guthaibiya Palace. I am familiar with the fact that there were much fewer walls 'back in the day' (i'm not sure when these pictures were taken - although guessing it looks like sometime in the 60's), but these pictures really show how open everything was ...

This one below shows how barren the land was around the palace which is now surrounded by highway, hotels, busy streets with eating places and so on. The second image below, from a couple of years ago, taken by oksabaro, shows more of the modern day palace setting, though from a different angle.


Gudaibiya palace & players


There are lots of people. It must've been Eid...

Wednesday, 5 January 2011

Cityphilia by Zena Assi

“Cityphilia” is an exhibition by Lebanese artist Zena Assi that is currently taking place at Al Bareh Gallery in Adliya, Bahrain.

The exhibition illustrates the relationship between people and their city (a topic that is quite precisely dear to me.) As a visual artist, Assi draws on personal/mental relationships people have with their surroundings attempting to convey it on canvas. Using mixed media and collage techniques, she brings together bits and pieces of the city around her: images of buildings, snippets of the writing on the walls, illustrations of people who inhabit the space, hand drawn added borders around the structures that make up the space, and so on. From a distance, the canvases look like jumbles of squares, colours and chaos. But up close, we can read messages of empowerment and look into the faces of the characters that enliven these great representations of the artist’s own metropolis-home, Beirut. Conveying not only the various levels (social, historical, political, etc) that create our surrounding spaces, Assi also creates portraits of people, encompassing those same spatial layers as being the same as those that make up individuals’ psyches.

Monday, 3 January 2011

my review: Transit Cities


Lucky enough to attend the Dubai International Film Festival for the second time, my interest was, once again, in the Arab films. I saw mostly shorts, and most of them were great: creative writing, intense acting, a range of production values, a nice diversity overall. But among the features, I noticed a new variety of films, one with a common theme: the protagonist who left to the West years ago has now come back. Using a fish-out-of-water format there is a culture clash played out by an incessant interpolation whereby the protagonist is confused and frustrated by [their own] local culture. In the post-colonial flavour, what we are left with is a premise of “man against [his own] othered society”.
This plays out in Microphone from Alexandria, a great film showcasing the immense underground musical and visual talent in the city. Here, perhaps this ‘new to town’ approach is used as a vehicle to really draw out the difficulty that the main character goes through as a producer attempting to get these artists a gig. By allowing the audience to follow the protagonist through his maze of bureaucracy, the movie illustrates the information and culture control in Egypt, a form of censorship that should be broken away from in order to celebrate the arts and promote individual expression.
But the premise I speak of is more clearly played out in Transit Cities, a Jordanian film about a woman who comes back from the US to Amman while going through divorce (what seems to be a cultural faux pas). In Amman, she is aggravated by the religion, she is annoyed by the globalization and disturbed by the smugness on one-side and the passivity on the other. Director of the film, Mohammed Hushki, wanted to highlight the setting of Amman as a place that is merely transit for many different people, in particular the Jordanians who have left only to come back bringing with them the idea that they are, at anytime, ready to leave again.
Hushki mentions in an article in the Jordan Times that the film is meant to show how polarized the city of Amman has become. A pious and conservative half is on one side and a globalized, Western thinking “neurosis” on the other. This premise of the film is based on this clash amidst the Ammani community and is played out through one main protagonist, Laila. She is annoyed by either side, and does not seem interested to fit in to any of it.
Laila, the character through whom we follow these ideas adds a certain layer of discomfort to the picture. Her representation of the independent liberal woman is by way of her painfully tight jeans, messy hair, cleavage popping, smoking-on- the-streets (indeed yet another cultural faux pas), and hanging out with a stereotype intellectual married ex-boyfriend while he lies to his wife about it (despite the mocking of Laila’s liberal-morale). By this point, it is the representation of the theme and the confused outlook it presents that are somewhat uneasy.
Unfortunately, however, besides this cliché and weak representation, there is some truth to it, she actually does represent a good deal of people. This film attempting to illustrate the two poles by placing a [supposedly] liberated, independent woman in the middle is uneasy because we see so much of this. There is a popular misleading and somewhat naïve expectation of what ‘development’, both social and societal should be. Based on the ideas that Hushki is presenting regarding his illustrations of the two poles, couldn’t we say that it is somewhat fantastical to believe that a changing city will be so harmonious? And looking at Laila’s reaction to the piousness of her sister and mother, isn’t it a bit narrow minded to think that those who have changed alongside the changing city are inferior? Again, unfortunately, many people do; this kind of postcolonial judgement is everywhere. Acting as a lens through which the hometown (Amman in this case) is portrayed as backwards and fanatic adds to this existing attitude. As an Arab who has gone back and forth between my ‘homeland’ and the West, I identify with that person on the screen from when I was a young teenager. At that age, I didn’t recognize the line between teenage angst and judgment of the nuances of a local cultural.
It is only at one final point during the climax where Laila’s family has a big blow-up on morality, that her sister puts her in her place. In response to her comment about going ‘back to the kitchen to cook for the kids’, her sister points out the misfortune of what her idea of being ‘cultured and liberated’ is. While she’s out being her ‘free’ self, it is her veiled, married sister who is making payments for the house that their parents live in and all else.
The film almost entirely seemed to showcase stereotypical characters that were the thorn in our protagonist’s freethinking side. She being the active female character amongst both, other passive females and even more passive males, puts her in a more daring situation, packaging her as superior to the rest, perhaps for not fitting into the two categories of Ammani society that have been presented to us: she is presented as an independent thinker that doesn’t fall into the pigeonholes that everyone else does.
So in the end I was a bit lost. While I appreciate that the filmmaker has identified a general issue that is blazing across the entire Middle East, that conflict between ‘religious dogma’ and the ‘globalized’ towards the grave point of neoliberal, the portrayal of it was skewed in its drawing the main character as a just-back-from-the-West woman with issues as the person through whose eyes we are meant to be questioning local society. The interpolation here is palpable, and although it is a story by a native of the society we are watching the film about, this society is portrayed as more of an ‘other’ society as any foreign film would. I could understand Laila’s frustrations, but I thought the portrayal and form of question was immature and disrespectful of local traits and contexts. The only voice we actually hear, again, the only eyes through which we as audiences see, is that of this "empowered" Westernized woman, which in turn completely diminishes any 'local' voice the film could have presented. Unlike the Microphone case, the ‘vehicle’ here was lost to a scoffy attitude that was ultimately judgmental and adolescent in it self.

Sunday, 2 January 2011

2011

Attacking your friend is bad manners.
(Omar bin Abdul-Aziz Elementary School for Boys, Muharraq, Bahrain)

Wishing everyone all the best towards a wonderfully pleasant 2011.